Make A Custom Dog Harness

In a few easy steps! You can make a custom dog harness that is adjustable and can be used for various types of dog exercise such as walking, bikejoring, dog scootering, rollerjoring and skijoring.

We found this very easy to make.

If only we'd known how simple it was to make a custom dog harness, Comet would have been better equipped for bicycle exercise years ago!

Directions for the Adjustable Short Pulling Harness

ESTIMATED TIME
Three hours

MATERIALS

Four plastic or metal sliders*
A plastic buckle*
A metal D-ring*
A metal ring*
Nylon webbing - Length and width vary with dog size:

*Size these to fit your webbing

We used 104 inches (2640mm) of webbing for Comet, a lean Shepherd weighing 72 lbs. Since we couldn't find all the hardware to match 1 inch webbing, we bought the 1 1/2 inch. It looks a little wide but works fine.

ESTIMATED COST (IF ALL ITEMS PURCHASED)

4 Plastic sliders USD 0.79 each
Plastic buckle USD 1.99
Metal D-ring USD 0.99
Metal ring USD 1.65
Nylon webbing 1 1/2" USD 0.79 a foot: 8 2/3 feet = USD 6.85
TOTAL COST: USD 15.66 with 7% tax

Note: The above items were purchased at a regular hardware store. Narrower webbing and smaller parts should be cheaper. You may find a better selection and prices at Strapworks.com or at a fabric outlet store.

We had two sliders already (one metal) so our actual cost was USD 13.97.

INSTRUCTIONS

Important: After you cut the webbing, melt the ends slightly with a match, lighter, or low flame on a gas burner to prevent unraveling. Use a wet cloth when you pinch the ends smooth so you don't burn your fingers

Step One - The Collar:
Draping the webbing over the dog's back

Drape the webbing over your dog's neck at the withers
Pull the ends forward across the dog's chest, and pin them where they cross each other in the middle just above the dog's breastbone
Measure 6 more inches (150mm) for each end past this crossover point
Cut the webbing and sear the ends
Add a slider and attach each end to the circular ring as follows:

Push it down from the top through the second slot
From underneath the ring, push the webbing up and through
Double it back, thread it through the slider, and pull tight

Step Two - The Tie:

Take a piece of webbing 12 to 15 inches long (300-380mm)
Thread a slider on one end, make a loop and put the loose end through the slider again
Push the other end through the circular ring from the top and loop back about one inch
Hand sew the webbing to secure this end using double thread

Sample stitching on the harness using white thread

We suggest you use the rectangle-and-cross-pattern shown above

Step Three - The Belly Strap:

Drape webbing over your dog's back, right behind the front legs
Pull till it's snug and overlap the ends by about 3 inches (75mm)
Cut off unnecessary webbing and sear the edges
Sew one end of the webbing to the receptacle part of the plastic buckle by looping the end through about 1 inch (25mm)
Thread the other end through the prong part of the buckle
Push through the slot closest to the prongs first, then double back through the second slot
If the loose end of the web is on the outside, it's easier to adjust

Step Four - The Top Strap: See ** under "Putting On The Harness"

Top part of the no-pull custom dog harness

Take one end of webbing and make a big loop through the D-ring
Put your Belly Strap through the loop next to the D-ring
Leave about 1 inch (25mm) of web end past the items in the loop
Sew this loose web end using a cross-and-rectangle pattern
Hint: If you use matching color thread, irregularities in sewing won't be apparent. The white thread used was for demonstration
Next sew a line right next to the D-ring to anchor it, making sure NOT to sew through your Belly Strap
Attach the fourth slider to the other end of your Top Strap
Loop this end around the upper part of the Collar and put it back through the Slider

Assembling the Pieces:

Pass the receptacle end of your buckle from the Belly Strap through the loop from the Tie
Buckle up
Adjust fit
Lock sliders in place by passing the loose end of webbing back over the end of the slider closest to it and threading it through the second part
To complete the custom dog harness, pad areas where webbing or hardware might dig into your dog. A piece of sheepskin or shoulder pads from ladies garments make great padding. Just cut to size, sew the sides and sew onto your harness where you want them. Or use pieces of foam at least 1/2 inch (12mm) thick, cover in fabric and attach.

Putting on the Harness

Push the loop end of the Tie between your dog's legs
Thread the Belly Strap through this loop
Adjust harness for a snug but not tight fit
If you like, tuck remaining ends back into the sliders to keep them from flapping, or
If you are sure your dog won’t grow or you won’t need the harness for another dog, you can trim ends – just remember to sear them

After you make a custom dog harness, it's time to have your dog get used to it. Comet regarded it as a no-pull harness because he was not used to having pressure against his chest when he pulled. However, he did take off a couple of times when he saw a cat and a deer and that's when we wished he had a cart behind him because he pulled pretty well then!

**A modification we would recommend is to secure the Top Strap where it loops over the Collar by sewing it down since that part tended to slide badly to one side.

By the way, uberpest.com has other ways to make a custom dog harness that you may find useful.

Return from Custom Dog Harness to main Harness page

Return from Make a Custom Dog Harness to Home